6 Dasher Brass Question

[Blindbat]

Everything I have read about producing 6 Dasher brass involves starting with 6br cases and hydroforming, creating a false shoulder or the hillbilly option of jamming a projectile hard into the lands. All methods involve fireforming with the expenditure of primers, powder and projectiles.

So my question is, has anyone started with Creedmoor brass and simply resizing in a Dasher die and trimming (possibly also neck turning). Dimensions seem within spec and the end result would be usable from the start or at least close enough that the first firing would be usable on target. Am i missing something here?

[JezL]

In my experience ... I have tried all those methods (except modyfing creedmoor brass), and the Hydroforming is the best option to give you "close enough" to final case dimensions before firing a shot (aside from buying Alpha or Peterson brass). I hydro form with the shoulder forward enough, so that when I run it through a FL sizing die, im getting a slight crush fit with headspace. I can run my normal powder loads and give up very little to once fired brass for velocity difference.

I have also ran my usual load in Hydroformed brass with exceptional results and have used these in club matches. (small hit on velocity, yet accuracy is good) ... However I typically use a slower charge for inital firing anways ... accuracy is still great.

The method you have described with cutting down creedmoor brass, imo, your best using a Hydro die, as it would arrive at a similar case dimensionally. Which is a case that is FL sized to your die dimensions, not chamber etc. and still requires some fire forming. And for the amount of work and cost, hydro forming makes a better arguement.

[PMcC]

Why not just use Alpha munitions 6 dasher brass from https://maxord.com.au/product-category/alpha-munitions/

Already formed and shoot straight from box without any hassle.

Bonus is that it comes packed in a MTM 100 rnd ammo box

[argh]

Just do the false shoulder and drop your load down, and then shoot in normal club comps. Its accurate.
Last time i fire formed cases, i screwed my old worn out fireform barrel in, loaded at exactly 10% less 2208, and gave it to some family members to do fireforming for me, not expecting anything accurate.
Well they shot 60.7. 59.4 60.6 and 60.4.
Lets just say i shot that same load combo MYSELF the next week for similar results.
Most of us that shoot dashers in my club get similar results.
Cheers
Adrian

[UL1700]

6BR to Dasher is in our experience still capable of shooting 60's out to 600 when fire forming from 6BR to Dasher (either false shoulder or jammed projectile) but as others have motioned for our current batch of brass Alpha was the choice, nice brass well packaged and no losses whilst fireforming.

[MarkS]

As above,
the smallest groups I have ever seen on paper were when fireforming either 6BRX or Dasher.
There is only "wasted" components if you choose to waste them.

[Blindbat]

I'd like to thank everyone for their advice. I have broken open more than one piggy bank and bought some Alpha brass. The thing I like about Lapua brass is they give 101 cases to a lot which allows one to be burnt to get an AMP setting for the remaining 100. Alpha have exactly 100 and I am loathe to burn one. Would anyone be able to help me out with an AMP setting for un-turned 6 dasher Alpha brass.