sock painting
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sock painting
Hi all, I am looking to paint my new resin stock and was just wondering just how much paint to order?.
The stock is an anschutz pattern and is a raw finish at the moment, i will be using an automotive paint in which to get the finish i'm after.
Any help on this would be great
Regards Stuart
The stock is an anschutz pattern and is a raw finish at the moment, i will be using an automotive paint in which to get the finish i'm after.
Any help on this would be great
Regards Stuart
Stiller/holeshot .22LR
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
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Mate, I thought you wanted advice about socks....oic, stocks he he.
You won't need much paint, but it does depend on how you are proposing to paint it. If using a spraygun (a good one), you would prob only need 250ml + thinners, but this also depends if you are using single pack, two pack etc. You will need more if using single pack.
Due to some of the nasty things used for cleaning rifles, I would not use single pack paint of any sort. If you have plenty of money, go for linear urethane - often used to paint commercial aircraft and big boats. Otherwise, go to local auto repair place to get some mixed in your colour, just use what they have. Most 2pack auto paint is pretty good. Personally, I like Glasurit.
I would use a clear coat as well, even if the colour is solid (not metallic or candy etc). That way, scratches or repairs are a piece of cake to do.
If using metallic, watch the colour of your primer, it does make a difference to the end product colour.
You won't need much paint, but it does depend on how you are proposing to paint it. If using a spraygun (a good one), you would prob only need 250ml + thinners, but this also depends if you are using single pack, two pack etc. You will need more if using single pack.
Due to some of the nasty things used for cleaning rifles, I would not use single pack paint of any sort. If you have plenty of money, go for linear urethane - often used to paint commercial aircraft and big boats. Otherwise, go to local auto repair place to get some mixed in your colour, just use what they have. Most 2pack auto paint is pretty good. Personally, I like Glasurit.
I would use a clear coat as well, even if the colour is solid (not metallic or candy etc). That way, scratches or repairs are a piece of cake to do.
If using metallic, watch the colour of your primer, it does make a difference to the end product colour.
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Hi Rod,
The finish i'm looking for will be done with a spray-gun and can be seen at the following link http://www.airbrushmegastore.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/32efb025ca59732a306b00ff01802d27.jpg
I was originally going with a red but i think the blue will look a lot brighter.
I will be using 3 coats of jet black under-coat then about 3-4 of the blue flake and finish off with 2-3 clear coats
Stuart
The finish i'm looking for will be done with a spray-gun and can be seen at the following link http://www.airbrushmegastore.com/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/32efb025ca59732a306b00ff01802d27.jpg
I was originally going with a red but i think the blue will look a lot brighter.
I will be using 3 coats of jet black under-coat then about 3-4 of the blue flake and finish off with 2-3 clear coats
Stuart
Stiller/holeshot .22LR
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
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- Joined: Thu May 22, 2008 9:00 pm
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Ok, the old "Corvette Summer" finish (showing my age).
I think you will need a lot more than 3 coats of clear on that flake. Probably more like 8-10, depending on how well the paint hangs.
No offence, I would do the prep a lot different...everything 2k, forget single pack exists. Primer in 1 litre is no probs, or...get it from your new mate at the car finishing shop...
There is no point in sanding any finer than 400 under a flake finish, and never use wet/dry on primer...it can leave small particles of silicon carbide which can affect the finish, or leave a small "oil" type spot which is impossible to remove without redoing the primer. Use Aluminium Oxide (white) paper dry and take your time.
On the clear coat, if the spraygun (and the nut behind the hose) is any good, the off gun finish should be good enough, otherwise, use nothing coarser than 1200 and do it as soon as possible after the paint has cured (say within 24 hours) otherwise the paint is too hard usually to get a good finish. This assumes you will use compound and a buffer to get your finish.
You will need at least 2 different tip sizes for your spray gun, or use two guns - the bigger one for the flake, same for primer and clear/top coat.
I used to paint carbon fibre aircraft for a job, hence my anal approach to preparation
I think you will need a lot more than 3 coats of clear on that flake. Probably more like 8-10, depending on how well the paint hangs.
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 9:38 pm Post subject:
Hi Stu
2K is the way to go at least for the clear coat use a fast hardner
A good 2K primer is also best
down side is I don't think U can get primer in 1 litre amounts
plenty of 600 800 & 1200 wet rub paper
No offence, I would do the prep a lot different...everything 2k, forget single pack exists. Primer in 1 litre is no probs, or...get it from your new mate at the car finishing shop...
There is no point in sanding any finer than 400 under a flake finish, and never use wet/dry on primer...it can leave small particles of silicon carbide which can affect the finish, or leave a small "oil" type spot which is impossible to remove without redoing the primer. Use Aluminium Oxide (white) paper dry and take your time.
On the clear coat, if the spraygun (and the nut behind the hose) is any good, the off gun finish should be good enough, otherwise, use nothing coarser than 1200 and do it as soon as possible after the paint has cured (say within 24 hours) otherwise the paint is too hard usually to get a good finish. This assumes you will use compound and a buffer to get your finish.
You will need at least 2 different tip sizes for your spray gun, or use two guns - the bigger one for the flake, same for primer and clear/top coat.
I used to paint carbon fibre aircraft for a job, hence my anal approach to preparation

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thanks for the tips guys,
i have a cousin who is a spray painter by trade and a friend who paints his own cars that can do the job easily enough as long as i get them the paint i just need to know how many litres i will need of the flake paint to do the stock itself.
and by the way thats one mean
looking paint job raven
i have a cousin who is a spray painter by trade and a friend who paints his own cars that can do the job easily enough as long as i get them the paint i just need to know how many litres i will need of the flake paint to do the stock itself.
and by the way thats one mean

Stiller/holeshot .22LR
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
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- Posts: 186
- Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 10:01 pm
- Location: Bribie Island QLD
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I've had a change of plan in the color selection finish see the attached pic
Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting
I will still be using a black primer of at least 3 coats then using the above color till i get the same finish as in the pic.
I'm hoping that 500ml should be enough
as the paint isn't cheap.

Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting
I will still be using a black primer of at least 3 coats then using the above color till i get the same finish as in the pic.
I'm hoping that 500ml should be enough

Stiller/holeshot .22LR
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
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- Posts: 186
- Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 10:01 pm
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g'day raven, the paint is gem color shift and the color is jade it cost's around $79 +postage for 480ml or $152 for 960ml. it's available from airbrush australia http://www.airbrushmegastore.com/index. ... t&Itemid=1
stuey
stuey
Stiller/holeshot .22LR
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
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- Posts: 186
- Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 10:01 pm
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an update on my omark project---
the jade paint has been ordered and is on its way at $106 inc delivery
,
will be picking up rifle from adam and barry on the 27th also hope to get a few rounds through it on the day at the castmaine range
,
then taking rifle to my mates place for the paint work to be done.
will also be taking some before and after pic's of rifle for posting on the site along with cost prices for complete project so other newbies can see costs for a very simple set-up.
the jade paint has been ordered and is on its way at $106 inc delivery

will be picking up rifle from adam and barry on the 27th also hope to get a few rounds through it on the day at the castmaine range

then taking rifle to my mates place for the paint work to be done.
will also be taking some before and after pic's of rifle for posting on the site along with cost prices for complete project so other newbies can see costs for a very simple set-up.
Stiller/holeshot .22LR
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g