OzFclass

Does anyone have approximate L x W x H dimensions of a Barnard P bedding block?

All I can suggest is flick Barnard an email and they will email the drawing when they get back to work tomorrow morning after thier Easter break. Guess ya know that though. Cheers Rob

Yep
160 x 25 x25
Matt P

The angle in the V is approximately 120 degrees.
Regards - Philip

I have made some a little longer. Depends a bit on your stock design of course. Not hard to make if you need one in a hurry.
If you make an equivalent it is important that longitudinally it is never convex - even a tiny bit. Preferably very slight concave of a few thou or else relieved a few thou downwards over the centre half is another option.

Thank you very much oh knowledgeable ones!

Pete good point regarding convex blocks. What's your thoughts on heavily relieving (1-2mm) the central section effectively leaving two V topped pillars 25mm long they are still connected by the lower section of the block?

Batattack wrote

What's your thoughts on heavily relieving (1-2mm) the central section effectively leaving two V topped pillars 25mm long they are still connected by the lower section of the block?

If you like. But make sure the hold down screws come through the middle of each 'V shaped Pillar'.

When I made some oversized, the actual V was still the same length. Just that one end had a longer non contacting tail to give better bonding to the wooden stock.

Yep noted!

I haven't had a look at the block vs the receiver screw hole locations but does the grade of ally make any difference here ? I'm guessing Barnard and most others use 6061 T6 ? Or maybe 6061 T6511 which gives a stronger harder ally than the T6 tempering process and machines better too. Or even 7075 T6/T651 ? That last is my favourite ally grade because its soooo bloody hard and strong and holds thread much better than the softer ally grades. But maybe a little less hard is more desirable for a v-block for vibration absorption ?? Dunno but that's something I've wondered about.

And do those blocks ever wear over time and then start to give variable results i.e. problems. And would it be prudent to lap the receiver in just a touch ? Perhaps I'm over thinking it ?

Gyro, I've gone back to pillars to get the resonance right. Found a gasket on top of the aluminium dampens vibration or a squirt of Sikaflex. Aluminium can be a bastard for transmitting vibration unless matches can be made with harmonic length and barrel tuner. n.b. greater the hardness the higher the frequency.

Gyro wrote:I haven't had a look at the block vs the receiver screw hole locations but does the grade of ally make any difference here ? I'm guessing Barnard and most others use 6061 T6 ? Or maybe 6061 T6511 which gives a stronger harder ally than the T6 tempering process and machines better too. Or even 7075 T6/T651 ? That last is my favourite ally grade because its soooo bloody hard and strong and holds thread much better than the softer ally grades. But maybe a little less hard is more desirable for a v-block for vibration absorption ?? Dunno but that's something I've wondered about.

And do those blocks ever wear over time and then start to give variable results i.e. problems. And would it be prudent to lap the receiver in just a touch ? Perhaps I'm over thinking it ?

Yep..........over thinking it!!!!!
K.H.

The "vibrations" of the block are only going to be equal to what the action would apply to the stock if mounted directly anyway.