Hi Guys, can you please explain the difference between a Savage Accutrigger base and a Savage Pre-accutrigger base, the two piece versions in 20MOA
Any details or explanation would be great, as I am looking for the one that would be more suitable for fitting to an Omark., to be topped with an 8-32x56 Nightforce BR
Had thought previously of using a one-piece Savage RTS in 20MOA but it might be a problem with an adapter being fitted and the front screws going into the adapter, maybe not the thing to do.
Cheers
Tman
Savage Accutrigger bases and non-accutrigger bases
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Tman
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Malcolm Hill
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Tman
The Farrell SAV-RTS-1-20 rail works very well on the Omark. Just need to drill one extra hole and then you can have two screws at the back and two at the front with one going into the adaptor. Some minor filing is sometimes needed at the rear of the rail to give clearance to the root of the bolt handle and depending on the brand of adaptor some small relief may be needed where the adaptor sits a little higher just forward of the action. With 4 screws used they end up a super strong set-up and you wont have any trouble with the heavy Nightforce on top.
Regards Malcolm
The Farrell SAV-RTS-1-20 rail works very well on the Omark. Just need to drill one extra hole and then you can have two screws at the back and two at the front with one going into the adaptor. Some minor filing is sometimes needed at the rear of the rail to give clearance to the root of the bolt handle and depending on the brand of adaptor some small relief may be needed where the adaptor sits a little higher just forward of the action. With 4 screws used they end up a super strong set-up and you wont have any trouble with the heavy Nightforce on top.
Regards Malcolm
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Tman
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Savage Accutrigger bases and non-accutrigger bases
The diameter of the adapter is the same as the action, so no real problem there, other people have expressed concern in drilling into the adapter for the front screws. I had not thought about the clearance at the rear where the bolt handle would possibly swing up and contact the base.
Correct me if I am wrong but the 20moa slope is on the bottom of the base, as the top of the base has to be parallel with the scope, but the back end of the base is the additional 20moa rise, in order to provide 20moa elevation to the barrel for long distance. The scope is aiming 20moa lower than the barrel, does that make sense?
The original question was ' what is the difference between a savage accutrigger base and a savage pre accutrigger base? Just out of curiosity, as this was going to be another option, but every body has been saying, stick with the one-piece base, less movent or no movement as compared to two-piece bases.
Tman
Correct me if I am wrong but the 20moa slope is on the bottom of the base, as the top of the base has to be parallel with the scope, but the back end of the base is the additional 20moa rise, in order to provide 20moa elevation to the barrel for long distance. The scope is aiming 20moa lower than the barrel, does that make sense?
The original question was ' what is the difference between a savage accutrigger base and a savage pre accutrigger base? Just out of curiosity, as this was going to be another option, but every body has been saying, stick with the one-piece base, less movent or no movement as compared to two-piece bases.
Tman
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Malcolm Hill
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- Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2006 9:40 pm
- Location: Mid North S.A.
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Omark Rail
Tman
Definitely stick with a one piece rail. Yes the taper between the top and bottom surface of the rail means the rear of the rail is slightly fatter. It is critical that the alignment of the rail with the action is correct to have the best chance of equal windage adjustment either side of centre which is required in this sport at the longer ranges. This is much easier to achieve with a one piece rail. Also the alignment between front and rear rings needs to be perfect to prevent any stresses on the scope tube when things are tightened up otherwise the tubes can be distorted and cause adjustment problems. With a one piece steel rail this is far less likely to be an issue if quality rings are installed. Can't see a problem with an extra screw into the adaptor as it goes well forward of the locking lug area above the thread for the barrel. Hope this info helps.
Regards Malcolm.
Check your PM's
Definitely stick with a one piece rail. Yes the taper between the top and bottom surface of the rail means the rear of the rail is slightly fatter. It is critical that the alignment of the rail with the action is correct to have the best chance of equal windage adjustment either side of centre which is required in this sport at the longer ranges. This is much easier to achieve with a one piece rail. Also the alignment between front and rear rings needs to be perfect to prevent any stresses on the scope tube when things are tightened up otherwise the tubes can be distorted and cause adjustment problems. With a one piece steel rail this is far less likely to be an issue if quality rings are installed. Can't see a problem with an extra screw into the adaptor as it goes well forward of the locking lug area above the thread for the barrel. Hope this info helps.
Regards Malcolm.
Check your PM's
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