OzFclass

can anyone tell me if they have made up a aluminuim bedding block - or two aluminuim crush tubes to bed a omark - has it been done - like a savage has got ect , or is it better to stick with bedding compound . why i ask is my omark is at gunsmiths getting bolt work done & im thinking of getting it rebedded while its there . was shooting reasonable ,rifle is currently putting 5 shots into a 7.10mm hole at 100 yards but i feel it could do a bit better .THANKYOU

From my experience, it's shooting far better than you should expect any target rifle to shoot. For example, my Millennium F Standard gun can about hold the championship target 10 ring elevation at 300 yards & on a good day, when I judge the wind right, I'll go close to clearing that target. That's equivalent to up to a 51.6 mm group or interpolating, 17.2 mm at 100 yards.

Leave the bugger alone.

PS: You might getter a better handle on its accuracy by shooting 12 shot groups. That's what you would expect to shoot on the range.

Phil Mastin makes Omark V blocks, a phone call is all that it takes

Mate,
If your .308 is shooting a 5 shot, 7.10mm group at 100yds you're a better man than me gunga din! unless you are measuring centre to centre (benchrest) it's not possible, if your rifle calibre is 7.62mm if it's less then I apologise and stand corrected.
That aside your Omark is a bit different to the savage action, I take it you mean pillars for the bedding screws, Chris B's suggestion re the Mastin bedding block would be a better way to go IMHO, the pillar system requires the action to rest on the pillars to get the support it needs, the difference is the recoil lug on the Omark is drilled for the front action screw, Remington 700's and from memory the savage 112 series have the action drilled behind the lug to take the action screw. This is important as the Omark action does not seem to 'like' the recoil lug touching the bottom or the sides of the mortice, nor the front screw bottoming out in the recoil lug. I have a bedding block fitted in my stock, the action screws do not touch the stock holes except where the heads bear on the stock in turned washers, the rear washer seats on the bedding block the rear screw is now forward of the trigger not in it's original hole to the rear of the trigger in the rifle tang, the front screw is torqued to 50 inch pounds and the rear is variable but usually between 48 and 50 inch pounds.

Hope this helps,

tiny

I have done a few Omarks with blocks. First thing is to turn off the recoil lug (whether included in the adapter or as a separate piece) and treat the action as a plain cylinder. Then make a bedding block that fits the whole length of the action (including said ex-recoil lug).

Drill and tap another hole in the center of the action and use a pin a-la Barnard V block style. All mounting holes need to have pillars in them through the stock.

By leaving the recoil lug on the action, the full benefit of the V block can't be capitalised on. That being to have the action find its own location within the block, with the lateral and rotational axes set by the center pin.

thanks everyone , i will speak to gunsmith where rifle is getting a bolt job done ,sounds like i will be ordering a v-block , re- TINY- no rifle is a 6.5 x 47 lapua for use in f open class .measured centre to centre ,, iv,e never touched the bedding that was in the stock when i bought it as a 308 , its just i thought i would get it checked & redone while its at gunsmiths . it still has bedding compound in it but just looks a bit rough . maddco supplied the barrel & new adaptor + fitted it all up for me only a few months ago so i have not done much experimenting with loads ect but have just purchased a few hundred 123gr lapua perjectiles to fiddle with .but it was the seirra 107gr perjectiles that shot the 7.10mm groups.

Rod, that's a very elegant solution to the problem of the recoil lug and the bedding block, my block stops at the rear of the mortice. I have seen the pin in the Barnard and often wondered if that would work elsewhere, I'd never thought of rounding off the recoil lug on an Omark, if starting from scratch with a new barrel would it be possible to leave the lug out of the equation? ie. just screw the barrel into the adaptor then screw the adaptor in sans lug? having installed the pin in the underside of the action. Also if you go for the centre pin, do you revert to using the rear tang action screw?

tiny

tiny wrote:Rod, that's a very elegant solution to the problem of the recoil lug and the bedding block, my block stops at the rear of the mortice. I have seen the pin in the Barnard and often wondered if that would work elsewhere, I'd never thought of rounding off the recoil lug on an Omark, if starting from scratch with a new barrel would it be possible to leave the lug out of the equation? ie. just screw the barrel into the adaptor then screw the adaptor in sans lug? having installed the pin in the underside of the action. Also if you go for the centre pin, do you revert to using the rear tang action screw?

tiny

It does work well. There is no need for the recoil lug, so we don't use them if we can convince people. Just because they are on the adapter doesn't mean they are needed. This is old thinking. The new adapters from TSE are one piece with included recoil lug. We just turn the lug off keeping the same diameter, the action is then just a cylinder like I said previously. The people at TSE might even make you an adapter without the lug.

Barrel fitting is easy enough, with or without the lug.

It is a definite advantage to use the tang screw. That way there are two bedding screws, and an extra center screw a-la Barnard. The further apart your bedding screws are the better. Your V block if you use this system will be around 200mm long, longer than most supplied: to take advantage of the extra cylinder length and the tang screw. Don't forget that you will need a steel center bush for the screw head.

You can also use a flexibloc for an Omark using the above theory. PM me for details.