uniforming pockets

[JAMMD]

Hi all,
Curious on what our members use for uniforming primer pockets.
I primed some new Lapua 308' today with white river primers, (LRP) tension was not consistent.
any advice is most helpful.
Cheer's and thanks in advance
John

[Fire Dog]

[font=Georgia]KM Primer Pocket Correction Tool.
Just chuck it up in a slow pistol type battery screwdriver.
Sadly, now that BRT is no more I am not sure where in OZstralia you can buy them but certainly direct from them in the USA.
Search around and see what might be available.
BTW: The WR primers are being found to be a bit "Firm" when seating and that is helpful if your primer pockets are starting to stretch... But can be very firm to seat in new brass...
Do you have a hand primer? I use a 21st Century "Click Adjustable" and it is a breeze to setup and get seating depth consistent, one "click" = .001"
Check with Q Store as they bought up a lot of BRT's inventory when they finally closed but as of last month when I was up they had not finished sorting through it all and setting up items for sale...[/font]

[UL1700]

PMA tool, but my 10 cents says it's not the brass.

[6.5x55ai]

Have the Sinclair PP Uniformers. Bought 2 LRP at the time. One OK the other cut deeper than SAAMI specs. Not impressed so sent back for refund. Use the remaining one to clean but not deepen the pockets.
Then got the early versions of K&M in LRP and SRP. These were an improvement and adjustable, just. Didn't particularly like them although I have other K&M stuff and it's very good.
Finally settled on a 21st Century uniformer. It's brilliant, easy to adjust and does both LRP and SRP. Excellent stuff like all 21st Century gear. And sadly, bought off Annie and Stuart.

[Pablolig]

[font=Georgia]KM Primer Pocket Correction Tool.
Just chuck it up in a slow pistol type battery screwdriver.
Sadly, now that BRT is no more I am not sure where in OZstralia you can buy them but certainly direct from them in the USA.
Search around and see what might be available.
BTW: The WR primers are being found to be a bit "Firm" when seating and that is helpful if your primer pockets are starting to stretch... But can be very firm to seat in new brass...
Do you have a hand primer? I use a 21st Century "Click Adjustable" and it is a breeze to setup and get seating depth consistent, one "click" = .001"
Check with Q Store as they bought up a lot of BRT's inventory when they finally closed but as of last month when I was up they had not finished sorting through it all and setting up items for sale...[/font]

Seb Australia sells a lot of 21 Century now

[John Weigel]

I believe that primer seating depth precision is important - I've written up test results on more than one occasion on this site demonstrating that. I also know that brass from the big hitters, at least (e.g. all usual things 7mm and 308) gradual 'mashes' at head, shortening the resulting seating depth of primers over time from, for example, 'contact +2 thous into pocket' to more like 3 and even 4 thous crush. Hence I grind primer pockets every processing cycle, just before trimming. With the modern gear available, admittedly at a price, I don't see the downside of including these steps each cycle - each step takes less than 5 seconds per 'grind' or trim per case, and on every event there is brass removed. Here's the K&M workhorse for primer work:

IMG_6295.jpg

[SMITHTON]

I use the K&M cutter in my cordless drill. I use the Wilson case holder to hold onto the cases. Sit over a bucket in the sunlight, so you can see the shavings fall out the neck. Be careful when doing cases for the first time as, the cutter can get stuck as you cut out the radius, shavings or a shaving will jam the cutter. I have learnt to avoid this buy removing and clearing. I then cut till the bottom is flat. That is all I do .
Feel free to call me anytime .
Darryl zero417072816.

[Fire Dog]

Ah yes, that 300SAUM is playing with the big boys...
I will start to check out my .280AI brass and see if this shortening effect is starting to happen to them.
Perhaps I will have to get out my primer pocket truing gear once again from the drawer where it has lain for years now...
I mostly used it for military surplus brass after de-crimping {RCBS spindle mounted has been the best and quickest} as I have found that some of it is quite shallow compared to what the cutter depth is set for.

I believe that primer seating depth precision is important - I've written up test results on more than one occasion on this site demonstrating that. I also know that brass from the big hitters, at least (e.g. all usual things 7mm and 308) gradual 'mashes' at head, shortening the resulting seating depth of primers over time from, for example, 'contact +2 thous into pocket' to more like 3 and even 4 thous crush. Hence I grind primer pockets every processing cycle, just before trimming. With the modern gear available, admittedly at a price, I don't see the downside of including these steps each cycle - each step takes less than 5 seconds per 'grind' or trim per case, and on every event there is brass removed. Here's the K&M workhorse for primer work:
IMG_6295.jpg

[ned kelly]

G'day All,
I have a 30 year old K&M LRP & SRP PP cutters, the SRP has been used many thousands of times in BR and F class, still going strong.
I use them to uniform AND clean/recut pockets during reloading......every single time without fail.
Yes the brass will flow and make your pockets shallower, if the pockets are getting loose, then your pockets are also getting shallow, they just have too!
Uniform depth has to be an ignition plus in my book, fwiw.
Hope this helps
Cheerio Geoff