OzFclass

Does anybody know if Moly Magic can remove moly from bullets without wreaking the copper jacket?.
I have had limited success using the tumbler.

Don't know the answer to your question re using Moly Magic to clean bullets but did find it close to useless for removing moly from a barrel that I wished to change to shoot naked projectiles thru.

Have cleaned reasonable quantity of projectiles (long long job) of moly by putting them in my tumbler (bigish Dillon) inside large pill bottles with media in them. Took a couple of changes of media b4 they came clean.

Didn't wish to put them straight into the tumbler bowl as I presumed I might have ended up with transferring some of the moly to the walls of the bowl.

I can try cleaning a couple of projectiles with MM if you like. I assume you don't have any MM?

Thanks for replying, no ,i am sick of buying stuff that is no good. If you could try the moly for me ,please.

Mate, a splash of CLR has worked a charm in a rock tumbler with water for me. Same tumbler I used to wet coat moly the bullets earlier, when I went down the path of trying everything! lol
Doesn't take long and no negative effects that I could see or shoot.......
Regards
Pete

6.5x55ai wrote:Don't know the answer to your question re using Moly Magic to clean bullets but did find it close to useless for removing moly from a barrel that I wished to change to shoot naked projectiles thru.

Really?

I’ve been using it with excellent results across 3 guns and 4 barrels? Inspecting with borescope as complete. What sort of Molly did you use?

Haven’t used it to clean bullets, will give it a go tonight and reply back.

Yes, you may well not see it with a borescope. I could never see a real predominance of moly (you wouldn't want see it) with my Hawkeye even when I was shooting moly. But when I wanted to ween my 6.5 off it and shoot uncoated I just knew the moly was still in the steel for some time after the change by what I was seeing during cleaning and my velocity trends. And, same issue removing the tungsten disulfide from my barrel when I trialed that.

Have just tried cleaning a molyed (Lyman's product) projectile with MM. Admittedly I only tried polishing the moly off with a saturated rag and not the recommended 10-15 minute soak that Boretech recommend for barrels, but virtually nothing happened. The rag darkened a bit and the projectile lightened in colour a bit but no magic tearing off of the coating.

The logistics of soaking a quantity of projectiles in the contents of one bottle of MM, well.....

This stuff is brilliant. Find it at coles. Teaspoon into half a box of bergers warm water let it soak for an hour or two then tumble, repeat if necessary.

https://shop.coles.com.au/a/a-wa-metro- ... eated=true

Well, i got the moly off , however, i may have overdone it with THE BARKEEPERS FRIEND. Placed bullets in glass jars , after soaking over night in dishwasher detergent(( ECOSTORE) Made no difference, but got rid of the loose moly. Rinsed well, sprinkled over with B K F To cover well, maybe to much. Shook well , and could see some copper colour showing through. Then made a mix of tumbling media and T B F , put that in the jars and tumbled . After only a minute, i stopped and checked. Opened one jar, rinsed, moly was gone. Immediately rinsed the others. The once shiny brass colour Bergers were, now a true copper colour, without the gloss. If these don't fowl the barrel , i will eat my hat, but will try them.

The CLR is the way to go. I use 50/50 CLR , hot water in class jars. Tumbled till you are happy with the amount of moly removed. Hard to get it all off. I stop when its mostly gone from the bearing part of the bullet.. the thing i love about CLR is it leaves the bullets smooth and shinny.

SMITHTON wrote:The CLR is the way to go. I use 50/50 CLR , hot water in class jars. Tumbled till you are happy with the amount of moly removed. Hard to get it all off. I stop when its mostly gone from the bearing part of the bullet.. the thing i love about CLR is it leaves the bullets smooth and shinny.

A word of caution, a lot of acids in CLR. I would suggest a follow clean up in bi-carb to totally neutralise any residual acid.
Keith H.

Yeah same deal I guess for when I used to clean my cases in an ultrasonic tank. I used very mild citric acid to clean but followed up with a wash in bi-carb solution. Before I did the bi-carb step I got some stunning (alarming) rainbow effects on my brass. It didn't usually appear until a day or so later. This was despite me washing the hell out of them after the citric acid clean. Bi-carb fixed that.

In the end I gave away the citric acid cleaning of brass altogether as I wasn't happy with what it was possibly doing to the brass alloy.

Doesn’t acetone remove moly?