OzFclass

Just air cool seems to be fine
Annealing neck not only extends the case life it also maintains consistent neck tension some 1000yd BR shooters anneal every reload
I find that because I do them by hand after the first firing the neck tensions are all very consistent.
Works for me
RB

Simon C wrote:

RAVEN wrote:PS don’t bother with the water pan method

Hi Richard,

Do u water quench them or air cool after heating them to the temp?

I just use a damp towel. Just lay the cases on it and it will draw the temp down.

Cameron

Ben,

did you notice any accuracy improvement after you neck turned?

Thanks, Fly

Fly,
The neck tension became more consistant after neck turning which did improve elevation.
Ive found this 6.5x47 lapua brass very inconsistant in neck wall thickness after being necked down to 6 ,so after considering what everyone has said over the last couple of days I think I will still neck turn this caliber.

Ben

littlebang556 wrote:I may very well be wrong...and it wont be the first time, but I was under the impression that all brass was annealed from new. Many manufacturers polish evedence of this away unlike Lapua (Lawastedmoney).

The cases when new (once fired of even fireformed)) WILL be soft enough to neck turn and will not result in the premature failure that resulted from doing so following a number of processes to allow case hardening.

Cheers

Rob Alman

Otherwise I will keep using my Wincheaper brass.

Rob, I agree with you, but not everyone (including me) have the time to put in either to do this stuff.

Of course all brass is annealed when it is formed. After loading thousands of both Lapua and WInchester 308 brass, there is no doubt that the Win necks are a lot harder from new. My collet neck die won't move a Win neck after about 3-4 loads. This is just my observation. Based on the price, I don't see the value of putting in many hours of weighing, trimming and annealing etc - I just use Lapuas and get the same thing.

I now FLS my brass every load (as you do Rob), only about 0.001" in length, which seems to give much more consistent results.

When annealing, I use a water bath, but mainly just to stop the heat migration where I want it (2-3mm below the shoulder).

I make my own 6/6.5 L Improved cases out of .243 Lap. brass. I anneal the the neck and shoulder every 5 to 7 firings by open flame for 6-7 seconds then quench in water. My cases have exceeded 40 firings each and I still don't see any problems appearing. Each anneal period the cases are F.L.S. shoulder bumped >001" and neck reamed to remove any trace of donut formation.
The cases appear to have now stabilized. I still have 100 cases on standby un used from manufacture 3 years ago. Perhaps the 40 degree shoulder angle and the slightly longer neck is helping a bit. Trouble is the 6mm. is as good as the 6.5 and it is always decision time which to use!