Tikka T3 Varmint for F Open?

[dhv]

So,,,, Tikka Varmints. Anyone seen any modifications around the traps?

[BATattack]

hey dvh!

in your first post you said you were looking for a tikka f open rifle? there seems to be alot of argument about .223 vs .308 but unless you want to shoot f standard forget about the whole lot!

if you would like a 'f open' rifle to have a bit of fun out to extended ranges you will need a 20MOA tapered scope rail so your scope will have enough adjustment. also if you want to use your rifle for hunting aswell make shure you buy a scope that has a large amount of elevation adjustment. so when you have the tapered rail to get more elevation you will still be able to wind down low enough to zero at hunting distances.

read what pest bird wrote. . . he is spot on! he has gone down that path with a tikka 6.5x55 so its not a un educated comment. he has since upgraded to very serious equipment and is the current S.A queens winner but it is someone speaking from experience.

you could find out what twist rate a tikka t3 has and that will tell you if it will be suitable for long range shooting.?

[Woody_rod]

A new shooter wanting a varmit rifle to start with and use for hunting later I would think a 308 is a better option both ways. Unless he wants a 223 with a factory fast twist barrel which then may limit its use as a hunting rifle later.
I would back a 308 over a 223 in most instances ... yes they can win but then again a Mini won Bathurst ONCE.

It is fine by me to have an opinion. I try to base mine on factual observation, not purely because I don't like something. I am going to Bisley in July, so use a 308 currently, with a Bisley chamber.

We make actions, and can use anything in the rack at any time. My choices would be: TR 308, FS 223, FO 260INCH.

I would back a 308 over a 223 in most instances

In WA, you would likely lose your money.

[johnk]

My choices would be: TR 308, FS 223, FO 260INCH.

What use is a tad over ¼"?

[Dave P]

Rod,

We make actions, and can use anything in the rack at any time. My choices would be: TR 308, FS 223, FO 260INCH.

Heres the rub mate .. you can shoot a 223 in TR, it has less recoil and is a match for the 308 .... Why dont you shoot a 223 in TR?????? Why is the 308 your first choice????

It is fine by me to have an opinion. I try to base mine on factual observation, not purely because I don't like something

Yes me too, I dont dislike the 223, in fact I own one but thats not the issue. You seem to think that what you have seen is more relevant than my experience, it aint neccessarily so old son.

As I see it you are contradicting yourself but what would I know .. apparently not much. Either way I dont care, some people just cant accept that others have differing opinions and feel the need to make big statements ...

[dhv]

To clarify, my reason for specifying F open is that I already have a 223 and a 308, so I wanted a different calibre to experiement with, with an emphasis on longer distances. Everyone seems to assume I am just starting out and I guess I am in F class, but I have been shooting and reloading for almost 40 years, just had more of a hunting focus before.

Right now I quite like the look of the 7mm Rem Mag and 175 grainers in the T3 heavy barrel.

Tell me, how would a Leupold 30X silhouette scope go in F class? I understand it might be a bit high on hot days (few and far between in this neck of the woods) but I have the luxury of just choosing a different rifle if that proves to be a problem, or swapping to a variable scope.

[johnk]

Tell me, how would a Leupold 30X silhouette scope go in F class? I understand it might be a bit high on hot days (few and far between in this neck of the woods) but I have the luxury of just choosing a different rifle if that proves to be a problem, or swapping to a variable scope.

My first ask of a scope is that it has enough adjustment to do the job properly, that is that it has full adjustment available through the range I will use getting from 300 yards to 1000 yards (or the Bungendore equivalent ) plus safety capacity. I want my elevation to be within 10 MOA of the optical/mechanical (assumption here, I know) centre of the scope at 1000 yards so that I can feel comfortable that when I crank what can be serious wind that the scope will respond precisely & accurately & secondly, that there is at least 10 MOA left on the elevation screw after I wind back to 300 yards. Assuming that you'll use up to a generous 30 MOA total to achieve that, then getting to 300 yards will take you around 20 MOA on the other side of centre to 1000. Add to that the 10 MOA safety margin & you come up with a scope that needs a total requirement for not much less than 60 MOA elevation adjustment capability. Don't short change here, you'll probably find that there will be a tad misalignement or wheatever in your rig so you could need more than this.

The above minimum capacity would require your scope to be set at a 20 MOA slope at least, failing which you would require an extra 40 MOA elevation capability minimum for an optimal output.

As far as scope power is concerned, I'm in that minority that isn't concerned about using a lot, even during severe mirage. I believe that you see exactly the same mirage irrespective of the power you're using, just that when the scope is at a lower power, some form a belief that the sight picture is ameliorated. However, don't take my word for it. There was a discussion on scope power here recently & you can get a handle on other views from that.

The bottom line is that I'm not familiar with the scope that you are considering, but many of the Leupolds not defined as long range style don't have a bucketload of adjustment, as you might expect when you relate them to the job they're designed for.'

John

[AlanF]

Right now I quite like the look of the 7mm Rem Mag and 175 grainers in the T3 heavy barrel...

dhv,

If you think a rifle bouncing and twisting and assaulting your shoulder for 30 or 40 shots is fun then go for it ! I don't know what weight the varmint Tikkas are but am assuming they're much less than the allowed 10kg when scoped, and 7mm Mags are not known to be gentle.

Actually in his first reply, Pestbird mentioned 6.5x55. The factory item would probably be throated long, and have 1:8 twist - ideal for the high BC 140gn projectiles, and should be pleasant to shoot at about 2800fps, and probably more competitive than a 7mm Rem Mag. Why? Because it is an inherently more accurate chambering. It would also be significantly cheaper to load and easier on barrels. FWIW if was a Tikka fan, that's what I'd do.

Alan

[Dave P]

F Open with a Tikka 20 MOA rail and 24x Leupold/Weaver scope I would look at
25.06 with 100 HPBT
260 with 120-130 HPBT
6.5x55 with 120-140 HPBT
7.08 with 168 HPBT

My pick would be the 6.5's either the Swede or 260 both also make a practical hunting option between 223 & 308

[BATattack]

dvh,

the caliber i shoot in f open with (6.5x47) is virtually ballisically identical to the 6.5x55. the rifle is honestly a pleasure to shoot and thats what it should be about

the 7mm RM is ok but you probably wont get the best out of the big case capacity (heavy bullets, slow powder) without a long 30" barrel.

remember you will have to do a fair amount of testing and tuneing to get a really good load. if you have a rifle that is a joy to shoot chances are you will test more and acctually shoot it beta.

why dont you send a private message to pest bird and ask about his experience with a 6.5x55 and one to RAVEN who has a 7mm RM? they are both good guys and shoot with/against eachother so will be able to give a direct comparison.

[timothi3197]

The issue with feeding the round into the chamber comes about due to the requirement to feed each round separately. i.e you are not allowed to use the magazine.

My Tikka feeds very well when using the magazine, however at the range when you are feeding through the extraction port, you will find the round drops down to the top of the magazine, and then when you try to push it foward into the chamber, it is not easy to guide in. It may vary with different calibres/cases.

Give it a go, you'll see what I mean. Then consider how much of a pain it will be, when you are trying to keep up with the wind changes.

Tried it just for curiosity yesterday(at 300) and have realised I am flicking the round forward and into the chamber rather than placing. I am used to doing this with my .223 Omark as it is a converted .308 so the difficult insertion is no issue. Gave it to a mate and he had a bugger of a time loading it each time so I can see where you are coming from.

I threw three sixes down the range from a cold barrel just using 50 grain noslers(just basic hunting rounds)so am quite happy with the accuracy, three in a row is all I like to do in a hurry as it is only a standard barrel.

Horses for courses if I had to choose one rifle for everything, and especially SSAA offhand competition, I would choose my TIKKA T3.

You have to admit the TIKKA's are class for what they cost eh?

[bartman007]

I'm happy with the Tikka too. As a hunting rifle, and to have a play at the range, they are very good value.

$1700 vs $5500 is about the difference in cost. So the Tikka is great!!!

Enjoy.

[Woody_rod]

feel the need to make big statements ...

Which are??