hi guys,
i am considering purchasing a annealing machine but are going to go "halves"with a mate.
now we both have about eight hundred cases to do at a time, what do people think of doing a hole batch against annealing just before the match?
regards paul
annealing made perfect
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Re: annealing made perfect
Your question I presume is about whether the case neck properties will somehow change over time if just left sitting ..... ???
Don't think so.
Don't think so.
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Re: annealing made perfect
There would be no conceivable difference between doing a large batch and just doing before a match .
Other than doing a large lot , you could get fatigued and may make mistakes?
Amp machines ( sponsored endorsement!) are very user friendly and Les likely for error , are fast than the old map torch and drill method ! I’m looking forward to using one !
Myself , I would just do up a batch of a 100 before a match, but that’s me ?
Regards Graham.
Other than doing a large lot , you could get fatigued and may make mistakes?
Amp machines ( sponsored endorsement!) are very user friendly and Les likely for error , are fast than the old map torch and drill method ! I’m looking forward to using one !
Myself , I would just do up a batch of a 100 before a match, but that’s me ?
Regards Graham.
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Re: annealing made perfect
budget wrote:hi guys,
i am considering purchasing a annealing machine but are going to go "halves"with a mate.
now we both have about eight hundred cases to do at a time, what do people think of doing a hole batch against annealing just before the match?
regards paul
I have an AMP and they are easy to use!
My cases are usually annealed each time they are used, I do them anytime.
Make sure you clean the inside of the necks before reloading(I use a nylon bore brush on a handle) as they will seat more consistently.
We don't rise to the level of our expectations, we fall to the level of our training. Archilochos 680-645 BC
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Re: annealing made perfect
Paul, if you are generally going to anneal bulk amount of cases in one sitting and especially of the same type, you may be better served with one of the many gas annealers available.
I had a Bench Source and it was a quality machine and was well suited for large amounts of brass. I have ordered an AMP though to anneal small amounts more frequently and I believe this is its main advantage, as you can just turn it and get started. The Bench Source once fired up and running would be much quicker for the large amounts (of the same type) that your are talking about.....
Regards
Pete
I had a Bench Source and it was a quality machine and was well suited for large amounts of brass. I have ordered an AMP though to anneal small amounts more frequently and I believe this is its main advantage, as you can just turn it and get started. The Bench Source once fired up and running would be much quicker for the large amounts (of the same type) that your are talking about.....
Regards
Pete
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Re: annealing made perfect
I have a Bench Source and have been more than happy with it. It is an extremely fast machine.
I believe though Stuart Elliot may have recently trialled an auto feed for the AMP.
AMPs are manufactured about 20 minutes drive fro where I live. Must have a look in one day.
Have basically not bothered to date though as I don't intend changing.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I believe though Stuart Elliot may have recently trialled an auto feed for the AMP.
AMPs are manufactured about 20 minutes drive fro where I live. Must have a look in one day.
Have basically not bothered to date though as I don't intend changing.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
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Re: annealing made perfect
I wanted an inductive annealer and I believe the AMP was the best on the market. But, I have champagne tastes and a beer budget!
So, I bought an ANNIE.
I experimented with all different coils as well as made some of my own. i finalized on the water cooled coil. I did many tests with Tempilac and determined the correct times.
Then, I bought a 12" X 6" 1/2" white plastic sheet off ebay as well as some 0.2" dia glass rods. I cut half circles on the side edges of the plastic sheet to match the ANNIE rubber feet and drilled a hole about 3/8" deep for the glass rod. Then I determined how long a rod had to be to hold the case up-side down so the neck was mid point in the coil. I cut a rod by scribing a scratch with a small three sided file , broke it off and fire polished it Bought a cheap line operated small fish bowl pump and am in business! Check out the photo
So, I bought an ANNIE.
I experimented with all different coils as well as made some of my own. i finalized on the water cooled coil. I did many tests with Tempilac and determined the correct times.
Then, I bought a 12" X 6" 1/2" white plastic sheet off ebay as well as some 0.2" dia glass rods. I cut half circles on the side edges of the plastic sheet to match the ANNIE rubber feet and drilled a hole about 3/8" deep for the glass rod. Then I determined how long a rod had to be to hold the case up-side down so the neck was mid point in the coil. I cut a rod by scribing a scratch with a small three sided file , broke it off and fire polished it Bought a cheap line operated small fish bowl pump and am in business! Check out the photo
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Norm
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Re: annealing made perfect
Norm, I checked out the Annie annealer, it's a little different from the AMP machine but I guess it does the same job for half the price of the AMP. I'm not sure what your plastic sheet and glass tubes do looking at your pic. It might be a good idea to explain a little more with the fine details,
Geoff
Geoff
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Re: annealing made perfect
Geoff,
I drilled a hole to clear the 0.2" glass rod on the centerline of the vertical induction coil. Then I put a rod in a case and mark the rod with a felt pen where the rod exits the neck. Then I put a glass rod in the hole in the plastic sheet and measure from the rod end in the bottom of the hole up to the vertical center of the coil put another mark. Next, I measure from the case neck to the middle of the neck. With these measurements, I can determine how long the rod must be so that after I cut the rod and fire polish it, then insert it into the hole I drop a case to be annealed down over the rod . The case is now supported up side down by the top end of the rod so the case neck is mid-coil. Then, start annealing. Of course, you have to make a rod for each case you anneal. In my case that is 6BRX, 284 WIN, 7X57 and Swiss K3i cases. Only the 6BRX needs an additional point, you must hold the base down as the inductive force will lift the case out of the sweet spot of the coil. All the other cases are heavy enough to stay down.
I drilled a hole to clear the 0.2" glass rod on the centerline of the vertical induction coil. Then I put a rod in a case and mark the rod with a felt pen where the rod exits the neck. Then I put a glass rod in the hole in the plastic sheet and measure from the rod end in the bottom of the hole up to the vertical center of the coil put another mark. Next, I measure from the case neck to the middle of the neck. With these measurements, I can determine how long the rod must be so that after I cut the rod and fire polish it, then insert it into the hole I drop a case to be annealed down over the rod . The case is now supported up side down by the top end of the rod so the case neck is mid-coil. Then, start annealing. Of course, you have to make a rod for each case you anneal. In my case that is 6BRX, 284 WIN, 7X57 and Swiss K3i cases. Only the 6BRX needs an additional point, you must hold the base down as the inductive force will lift the case out of the sweet spot of the coil. All the other cases are heavy enough to stay down.
Norm
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Re: annealing made perfect
Thanks Norm, that explains a lot. I'm a little like yourself, but without any budget. The Annie is appealing just on price if it does the same job as the AMP machine. Not sure what the exchange rate is like after importing an Annie, may not be worth it but worth a look.
cheers
Geoff
cheers
Geoff
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