Weaver rings & picattiny rails

Get or give advice on equipment, reloading and other technical issues.

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Weaver rings & picattiny rails

#1 Postby Omark44boy » Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:53 am

Hi All

I am about to dip my toes into the waters of F-class Std in a month or two.

I have bought an Omark in .308 Win with a picattiny 20moa rail already fitted and, until I can save up for better optics, will be using a Bushnell XLT 6-18x40mm with one inch tube and Weaver type rings that I have lying around.

I have read that the Weaver rings should fit the Picattiny rail and that I should push the rings as far forward as they can go in the slots when mounting them as this will prevent them from moving under recoil. Is this true?

Any other advice?

Thanks in advance.

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Location: New Zealand

Re: Weaver rings & picattiny rails

#2 Postby Gyro » Wed Mar 28, 2018 11:25 am

Yeah push them forward into the 'stopped' position as under recoil that's where they will want to go anyway.

LAP THE RINGS in if they are not the plastic insert type !! Sooooo many shooters ruin thier scope by clamping it down hard Into misaligned rings !! Not to mention the accuracy problems that may arise.

After u have lapped the rings ( assuming u do ) debur all the sharp edges on the rings so they dont mark the scope. Plus epoxy the base on too but make sure the screw heads are not covered over with glue so you can get a tool on them later if u need to unscrew them. Just apply some slight flame heat to the epoxy and it turns to a soft gum if you want to remove the base.

Do NOT use loctite to secure the scope base. It is great stuff but is NOT made for that job. 680 loctite would come closest but is still not as good as a two-pot epoxy which has the required gap-filling properties. Cheers Rob

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Location: Wagga Wagga, Australia

Re: Weaver rings & picattiny rails

#3 Postby bainp » Wed Mar 28, 2018 4:51 pm

Just apply some slight flame heat to the epoxy and it turns to a soft gum if you want to remove the base.

Or apply a hot iron to the scope base for a couple of minutes, which I think probably removes any risk of overdoing the flame heat. This method also good for removing glue in bedding jobs. (hot iron on top of action not the stock of course)

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