This is the trigger on my Dale rifle. I need some help on the adjustments, at the moment it is not engaging the sear every time when closing the bolt. Can someone tell me what type of trigger it is, and what the adjustments screws (A), (B) & (C) might be for.
thanks, Bart
Trigger adjustment - Dale Rifle
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Re: Trigger adjustment - Dale Rifle
Hi Paul; fairly confident this is a Graham Mitcham designed trigger manufactured by Bernie Dalton, who was responsible for the production of the Dale action. I also have an identical trigger on a Dale action. Alas I cannot recall the adjustment sequence as requested, but if you call Dick Spillman, he is likely to know. I am working away at present so don't have either the rifle or trigger diagram at hand to fully answer your questions. Regards...Tim
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Re: Trigger adjustment - Dale Rifle
I have not had any experience with this trigger, but my guess from the pic is A. Trigger pull adjustment, B. Overtravel C. Sear engagement. However not being able to "see" the trigger internal function, it is possible B & C may be reversed.
Keith H.
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Re: Trigger adjustment - Dale Rifle
Looking at the trigger I think B would be sear engagement and C the overtravel. Regards Malcolm.
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Re: Trigger adjustment - Dale Rifle
My Guess,
A is pressure. B is sear engagement. C is overtravel.
Alternatively - A is overtravel and C is pressure
B Cannot be overtravel.
All assuming it's a single stage trigger.
A is pressure. B is sear engagement. C is overtravel.
Alternatively - A is overtravel and C is pressure
B Cannot be overtravel.
All assuming it's a single stage trigger.
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Re: Trigger adjustment - Dale Rifle
Barry Davies wrote:All assuming it's a single stage trigger.
Yes, single stage trigger
Thanks for input and help thus far fella's
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Re: Trigger adjustment - Dale Rifle
Hi John,
It looks like Burnie copied and modified one of my trigger designs. "A" is trigger over-travel adjustment. "B" is sear engagement and "C" is trigger pressure adjustment.
It's easy to confirm this by stripping the trigger and maybe cleaning it and lubricating the sear with, say, moly grease. You remove the circlip on the pivot pin and remove the pin and slip the single "T"shaped sear lever to the bottom. There should be a spring and maybe a covering plunger under the rear "C" adjustment screw. The only thing to be careful about before re-assembly is not to lose the circlip or trigger pressure spring/plunger.
I normally set sear engagement by winding the sear engagement screw in on a cocked bolt (empty chamber of course) until the sear releases and then back off the screw a 1/8 to 1/4 turn until the desired sear engagement is achieved. All of the nuts are lock nuts for the screws, back them off before adjustment and tighten them to lock. I normally lock them with a hex key held in the screw to stop it moving after adjustment. Over-travel "A" is optional and adjusted to preference, I simply remove this on my triggers and let the trigger pressure spring take up the over-travel without any sudden stop in movement. It's a personal thing.
Removing the trigger is a bit more ambitious, by removing the pin in the action at the top rear of the trigger and pulling the trigger out. You need to be careful on reassembly as the pin is the pivot for the top sear and there is another spring under the top sear. Assembly is in the reverse order, but more tricky to line up the top sear with that pin. My triggers were not designed that way, but Bernie modified it and copied the Omark here.
Hope that helps,
Graham
It looks like Burnie copied and modified one of my trigger designs. "A" is trigger over-travel adjustment. "B" is sear engagement and "C" is trigger pressure adjustment.
It's easy to confirm this by stripping the trigger and maybe cleaning it and lubricating the sear with, say, moly grease. You remove the circlip on the pivot pin and remove the pin and slip the single "T"shaped sear lever to the bottom. There should be a spring and maybe a covering plunger under the rear "C" adjustment screw. The only thing to be careful about before re-assembly is not to lose the circlip or trigger pressure spring/plunger.
I normally set sear engagement by winding the sear engagement screw in on a cocked bolt (empty chamber of course) until the sear releases and then back off the screw a 1/8 to 1/4 turn until the desired sear engagement is achieved. All of the nuts are lock nuts for the screws, back them off before adjustment and tighten them to lock. I normally lock them with a hex key held in the screw to stop it moving after adjustment. Over-travel "A" is optional and adjusted to preference, I simply remove this on my triggers and let the trigger pressure spring take up the over-travel without any sudden stop in movement. It's a personal thing.
Removing the trigger is a bit more ambitious, by removing the pin in the action at the top rear of the trigger and pulling the trigger out. You need to be careful on reassembly as the pin is the pivot for the top sear and there is another spring under the top sear. Assembly is in the reverse order, but more tricky to line up the top sear with that pin. My triggers were not designed that way, but Bernie modified it and copied the Omark here.
Hope that helps,
Graham
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