Warm barrel for cleaning?
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Warm barrel for cleaning?
So I think most here agree that a warm barrel is easier to clean than a cold one. Do you agree?
What methods have you tried to warm a cold barrel prior to cleaning if you don't have time immediately after shooting. I know shooters who pour boiling water down the barrel, but this doesn't excite me too much. I was thinking more about a heat lamp, or a wrap around electric blanket type thing??? Is this ridiculous or has anyone tried something similar?
Cheers,
Ryan.
What methods have you tried to warm a cold barrel prior to cleaning if you don't have time immediately after shooting. I know shooters who pour boiling water down the barrel, but this doesn't excite me too much. I was thinking more about a heat lamp, or a wrap around electric blanket type thing??? Is this ridiculous or has anyone tried something similar?
Cheers,
Ryan.
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I'd be interested in trying some Piston Kleen if it is available locally.
It seems perform a little better than the other cleaners for carbon removal. http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm. From the test report most cleaners perform at their best when thoroughly left to soak the bore. The report also mentions the better performance gained by using foaming cleaners as they thoroughly soak the bore.
This might explain the results I get with carby/throttle body cleaners as they are all aerosol packed with a jet nozzle nozzle more than a spray type nozzle. Like wasp spray vs fly spray in a can.
If you are thinking about using straight boiling water I'd consider using a water displacement solution soak afterwards. You really don't want any water trapped under layers of cleaning/oiling solution you may use afterwards, prior to long term storage. Boiling water is really more of a last resort method.
It seems perform a little better than the other cleaners for carbon removal. http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm. From the test report most cleaners perform at their best when thoroughly left to soak the bore. The report also mentions the better performance gained by using foaming cleaners as they thoroughly soak the bore.
This might explain the results I get with carby/throttle body cleaners as they are all aerosol packed with a jet nozzle nozzle more than a spray type nozzle. Like wasp spray vs fly spray in a can.
If you are thinking about using straight boiling water I'd consider using a water displacement solution soak afterwards. You really don't want any water trapped under layers of cleaning/oiling solution you may use afterwards, prior to long term storage. Boiling water is really more of a last resort method.
Be careful what you aim for, you might hit it! Antipodean Industrial - Home of the G7L projectiles
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there are now many inexpensive steam type applicators that are easily converted for bore heating and cleaning.
we have been using a black and decker "mr cappucino" (plus a length of clear pvc tubing) for many years without complaint.
heat assists all chemical solvents to work more efficiently.
also, unlike boiling water which may contain residues, steam is pure.
cheers
dave
we have been using a black and decker "mr cappucino" (plus a length of clear pvc tubing) for many years without complaint.
heat assists all chemical solvents to work more efficiently.
also, unlike boiling water which may contain residues, steam is pure.
cheers
dave
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jasmay wrote:I think the idea is get the cleaning fluid in before it cools, at least this is how I do it.
My experience is once it has cooled, warming makes little to no difference in removing fouling, particularly carbon.
Most definitely not my findings over many many years of dealing with this problem. Heating the barrel with boiling water is better than trying to clean while hot from shooting. Almost impossible to get solvent into the barrel soon enough after the last shot & take care of all your on line responsibilities. I do not subscribe to cleaning on range anyway, unless one is correctly set up for it, but that is a separate issue.
Keith H.
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If you are thinking about using straight boiling water I'd consider using a water displacement solution soak afterwards. You really don't want any water trapped under layers of cleaning/oiling solution you may use afterwards, prior to long term storage. Boiling water is really more of a last resort method.[/quote]
Not so, the barrel is so hot from a litre of boiling water that it is surface dry before you can get the solvent into it. The barrel actually feels as hot to the touch as it does after 10 shots.
Keith H.
Not so, the barrel is so hot from a litre of boiling water that it is surface dry before you can get the solvent into it. The barrel actually feels as hot to the touch as it does after 10 shots.
Keith H.
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dave
the steam passing throught the pvc does make it slightly soft and pliable but works fine.
the pvc tubing is foggy from use earlier today.
where it attaches to the mr cappucino is just a friction fit and does not blow off with the pressure.
naturally the steam is released or applied gradually to ensure the entire barrel is heated.
i have noticed that when the barrel is of uniform temp that steam gas is emitted from the muzzle. whilst heating, condensed water droplets flow from the muzzle.
the device is able to fully heat 2 large barrels (including the attached barrel blocks) without needing re-filling.
it is also possible to apply heat to different positions in the barrel, depending on how far the tubing is inserted.
0.210 OD tubing is a perfect fit for the nozzle and has been used for all calibres from .22 up without problems for many years.
i prefer the pvc because it is flexible,harmless to the barrel interior and easily insertable either through the loading port or from the rear of the action
cheers
dave
the steam passing throught the pvc does make it slightly soft and pliable but works fine.
the pvc tubing is foggy from use earlier today.
where it attaches to the mr cappucino is just a friction fit and does not blow off with the pressure.
naturally the steam is released or applied gradually to ensure the entire barrel is heated.
i have noticed that when the barrel is of uniform temp that steam gas is emitted from the muzzle. whilst heating, condensed water droplets flow from the muzzle.
the device is able to fully heat 2 large barrels (including the attached barrel blocks) without needing re-filling.
it is also possible to apply heat to different positions in the barrel, depending on how far the tubing is inserted.
0.210 OD tubing is a perfect fit for the nozzle and has been used for all calibres from .22 up without problems for many years.
i prefer the pvc because it is flexible,harmless to the barrel interior and easily insertable either through the loading port or from the rear of the action
cheers
dave
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Brad Y wrote:People have reported boiling water to be good as well.
But like Jason said, after firing that last shot, put the gun in the back of the ute and get a few wet patches down while warm, go back and score, then go home.
So am I clear in reading this, you want to put the rifle in the ute after you have shot,give it a little clean then go back and score? You'd be pretty popular !
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Budget - When I visited the west your scoring duties started one shooter after you finish shooting rather than immediately (with ET's only one scorer required - no check scorer so essentially you sit out the blackboard duties...) This allowed time for a quick scrub with hoppes, grab a drink and binos and return.
In essence this allows people to look after their gear better and a good idea in my book....
Dave - can't argue with what is working but it does surprise me.... and I like the idea very much
In essence this allows people to look after their gear better and a good idea in my book....
Dave - can't argue with what is working but it does surprise me.... and I like the idea very much
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budget wrote:Brad Y wrote:People have reported boiling water to be good as well.
But like Jason said, after firing that last shot, put the gun in the back of the ute and get a few wet patches down while warm, go back and score, then go home.
So am I clear in reading this, you want to put the rifle in the ute after you have shot,give it a little clean then go back and score? You'd be pretty popular !
As dave said. I'm pretty sure if you score the go back to the car that a barrel is still warm and the carbon doesn't get the chance to harden like it would a few days in a safe...
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Even if your shooting manual targets, your barrel will still be warm to some extent when you get back to it. Even if its warm or cooled, the carbon still hasnt had much time to go hard compared to leaving it a few hours or days... Pretty simple really. Clean it or get some hoppes into it as soon as you practically can to make it easier to clean later on.
FWIW if it was an OPM I would shoot all ranges required then clean at lunch. No need to do it after each range.
FWIW if it was an OPM I would shoot all ranges required then clean at lunch. No need to do it after each range.
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