Adjustable cheek piece or not for Fclass

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John23
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:11 pm

Adjustable cheek piece or not for Fclass

#1 Postby John23 » Mon Dec 17, 2012 2:05 pm

Gday

I am in the process of putting together a Savage 12 Flcass in 6.5x47 and start shooting F open for sport.

I have machined a 4 way adjustable but for the rifle that will allow LOP,cant,offset and hight adjustment.

The next plan was to install a adjustable cheek piece but after talking to my mate he said he suffered a loss of accuracy when using his in the raised position.

So what do you guys think ? do I need adjustment there? Do you try and get a strong cheek weld or do you float over the rifle?

I dont want to waste time and effort if its for no gain.


Thanks in advance,

JH ;)

Brad Y
Posts: 2181
Joined: Fri Jun 26, 2009 8:21 pm

#2 Postby Brad Y » Mon Dec 17, 2012 3:07 pm

Built it to 9-10kg and shoot free recoil. I dont bother with hard holds and trying to get good cheek welds with the 308 FS gun so the 6.5x47L will be fine. Cheek welds is something for trap and skeet shooters to worry about :lol:

johnk
Posts: 2211
Joined: Sun Sep 07, 2008 7:55 pm
Location: Brisbane

#3 Postby johnk » Mon Dec 17, 2012 3:45 pm

I don't use cheek weld with F class rifles.

Barry Davies
Posts: 1384
Joined: Tue Aug 24, 2010 12:11 pm

#4 Postby Barry Davies » Mon Dec 17, 2012 3:53 pm

Neither do I -- causes inaccuracies.

John23
Posts: 429
Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:11 pm

#5 Postby John23 » Mon Dec 17, 2012 4:05 pm

Thanks for the help.

Expect more of these noob questions from me, I have been shooting for 5+ years but only now am I getting into competition. Seeing I am spending the time and money on a purpose built rifle I thought I should get it right.


As for adding weight... dose it matter where the weight is? and use what for the weight?
I assume lead, if so where do you purchase blocks of lead?


Thanks again

JH ;)

Southcape
Posts: 707
Joined: Tue Aug 16, 2011 7:57 pm
Location: Western Australia

#6 Postby Southcape » Mon Dec 17, 2012 4:34 pm

If you are using cheek weld, your cheek has to be the same position and pressure every single shot. This is why many remove the cheek piece.

I have removed my cheek piece, but still maintain a small amount of cheek weld. This is due to the design of the stock.
Linda

mike H
Posts: 624
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 5:34 pm
Location: JUNEE NSW

#7 Postby mike H » Mon Dec 17, 2012 5:49 pm

The reason for the cheekpiece is to centre you eye behind the sights,if you think that is not needed with telescopic sights,go right ahead and don`t use one,you will have plenty of supporters.
Mike.

DenisA
Posts: 1526
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Location: Sunshine Coast, QLD

#8 Postby DenisA » Mon Dec 17, 2012 7:49 pm

mike H wrote:The reason for the cheekpiece is to centre you eye behind the sights,if you think that is not needed with telescopic sights,go right ahead and don`t use one,you will have plenty of supporters.
Mike.


As I understand it, and I stand to be corrected....

Seeing as we're shooting known distance stationary targets, were using scopes that allow us to adjust parallax precisely, and we have time to set up, the reticle doesn't move around the target as the eye moves slighty out of alignment.

Thats not to say that a repetetive position isn't ideal, but as I understand it, allowing this cheek pressure interference with the rifle would be more of a disadvantage than a slightly misaligned eye/scope when the parallax is set correctly.

I understand that in tactical and hunting situations where unkown distance targets need to be engaged quickly, physically and repeatedly aligning the eye via a cheek piece is the only way to accurately shoot through an incorrect parallax setting.

Again, I'm not challanging anyone, thats just my understanding of it and I'm open to opinions.

Paul Janzso
Posts: 573
Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 1:10 pm
Location: Mackay QLD

#9 Postby Paul Janzso » Tue Dec 18, 2012 7:51 pm

Have a look at the MBR Tracker stock. It is built for F Class. Tested over time and copied by many.
As for adding weight, I use 1 inch copper gas pipe filled with molten lead. My gunsmith has made a jig to hold the stock blank and drill holes into the but to take the lead filled copper pipe.
For F Class open barrels use 1.25 inch parallel barrels. Don't stuff around with tapered barrels as you have a 10 kg weight limit, use it.
You asked this is my winning combination.
Paul
Time's a wasted wot's not spent shooti'n BARNARD 300WSM's

Cameron Mc
Posts: 1089
Joined: Tue Jun 28, 2005 10:55 am
Location: Darling Downs SE Qld

#10 Postby Cameron Mc » Tue Dec 18, 2012 8:15 pm

DenisA wrote:As I understand it, and I stand to be corrected....

Seeing as we're shooting known distance stationary targets, were using scopes that allow us to adjust parallax precisely, and we have time to set up, the reticle doesn't move around the target as the eye moves slighty out of alignment.

Thats not to say that a repetetive position isn't ideal, but as I understand it, allowing this cheek pressure interference with the rifle would be more of a disadvantage than a slightly misaligned eye/scope when the parallax is set correctly.

I understand that in tactical and hunting situations where unkown distance targets need to be engaged quickly, physically and repeatedly aligning the eye via a cheek piece is the only way to accurately shoot through an incorrect parallax setting.

Again, I'm not challanging anyone, thats just my understanding of it and I'm open to opinions.


Agree Dennis

I believe a lot a people do not adjust parallax correctly for F Class. I think many just adjust the scope till the sight picture looks the best

Cameron


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