Hi guys,
I am new to this forum and are looking at starting shooting f class, the rifle range is closer than the pistol range and it might keep the wife happy if i shoot less pistols.
I have an omark which i bought 3 or 4 years ago with Legg stock and heavy 26" barrel. The trigger is really light and wont pass a fast cycle test.
The question is i would like to know what the 3 screws on the trigger do. There are 2 at the front and 1 in tha back (inside the housing). I need to increase sear engagement.
Thanks in advance.
Scott Seddon
Omark Trigger Adjustment
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Scott,
http://www.mab.com.au/products/firearms/exploded.htm
If you look real hard at the exploded diagram on the MAB web site, you'll see that the top front screw controls overtravel, the bottom, trigger weight & the one on the back is your sear engagement. However, it has been known for some to interchange the function of the two on the front of the trigger housing - it helped the sensitivity of the trigger weight function according to some.
If it's an original trigger (Sportco or Omark - not MAB) chances are that the trigger has a lot of side to side slop in the cage which doesn't help precision of engagement. That can be eliminated either by judiciously packing the sides of the trigger at the pivot with brass shim, or I have seen the cage snigged in by squeezing the bottom back corner with a screw & nut or a welded spacer - your call though.
A Remington trigger or clone can be made to work, but:
It will overcock the firing pin by about a tenth of an inch, if the sear on the firing pin isn't modified.
Engagement with the firing pin can be minimal or FA, necessitating the sear on the firing pin being built up by a milimeter or more, but watch out for clearance in the way in the action. There is a particular issue if the threads on the firing pin shroud is worn & sloppy, causing the butt end of the in to cock upward when the sear engages.
John
http://www.mab.com.au/products/firearms/exploded.htm
If you look real hard at the exploded diagram on the MAB web site, you'll see that the top front screw controls overtravel, the bottom, trigger weight & the one on the back is your sear engagement. However, it has been known for some to interchange the function of the two on the front of the trigger housing - it helped the sensitivity of the trigger weight function according to some.
If it's an original trigger (Sportco or Omark - not MAB) chances are that the trigger has a lot of side to side slop in the cage which doesn't help precision of engagement. That can be eliminated either by judiciously packing the sides of the trigger at the pivot with brass shim, or I have seen the cage snigged in by squeezing the bottom back corner with a screw & nut or a welded spacer - your call though.
A Remington trigger or clone can be made to work, but:
It will overcock the firing pin by about a tenth of an inch, if the sear on the firing pin isn't modified.
Engagement with the firing pin can be minimal or FA, necessitating the sear on the firing pin being built up by a milimeter or more, but watch out for clearance in the way in the action. There is a particular issue if the threads on the firing pin shroud is worn & sloppy, causing the butt end of the in to cock upward when the sear engages.
John
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Trigger
Forget about the omark trigger and get a Davies trigger
______________________________
Fullbore = 5.56mm = 100.20 = smile
A.K.A........THE DREMELATOR
PUT Busselton RIFLE RANGE ON YOUR SHOOTING CALENDAR...THE GOLDEN BULLET...3rd Weekend In May. http://www.busseltonrc.com
Fullbore = 5.56mm = 100.20 = smile
A.K.A........THE DREMELATOR
PUT Busselton RIFLE RANGE ON YOUR SHOOTING CALENDAR...THE GOLDEN BULLET...3rd Weekend In May. http://www.busseltonrc.com
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g'day seddo, to check out the davies trigger and order direct from them http://www.daviestriggers.com.au/
Stuey
Stuey
Stiller/holeshot .22LR
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
Bruno mod2(sleeved) .22LR
Rem7(sleeved) 6mmBR and 6mm Dasher
Stolle panda 6PPC
Winchester 101 12g
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