Adjustable Cheek Piece

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littlebang556
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 11:04 am

Adjustable Cheek Piece

#1 Postby littlebang556 » Wed Dec 27, 2006 11:18 am

At pressent I have a fixed cheek piece but would like to convert it to an adjustabe.
How easy is this to do and does any one have some pictures and/or plans that might help me.

I only have the one target rifle and as a result would miss some shooting if I was to send it away to get done otherwise I would do so.

I have been adjusting my but plate up and down at different ranges to try and compensate for this but would like an alternative way.

Regards

Littlebang556 Rob
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#2 Postby Guest » Wed Dec 27, 2006 2:36 pm

You need access to a bandsaw and a drill press some plain 1/4 steel rod 50mm long and some 1/4 threaded rod 40 mm long.
You cut a 1/2 moon section out of the top of the butt at least 30 mm deep at the bottom of the curve. This is the cheek piece. You drill 3 holes in the butt in the cut surface at 30 mm spacing and 6.5 mm diameter 50mm deep and 3 holes in the cheek piece that exactly line up with the holes in the butt that are 7mm diameter and not deep enought to come right thru the cheek piece ( Bad oops if they do).
Put the plain steel rods in the outer holes of the butt and the threaded rod in the centre hole.
Mix up some 2 part glue ( Araldite will do) and place a small quantity in each of the holes in the cheek piece and press the exposed ends of all the rods into the holes with the glue keeping the cheek piece in alignmenmt with its original position. A few match sticks will act a spacers.
If you can drill and tap a hole in a round disk of metal the same thread as the rod it then becomes an adjustment nut to hold the cheekpiece at the height you require. If can get to a lathe and can drill and tap and knurl the edge of the disk then you are even better off.

littlebang556
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 11:04 am

Cheek Piece

#3 Postby littlebang556 » Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:42 pm

Sounds like a done job.

Does anyone else have any other ideas and/or pictures/diagrams that might give me an idea of the finished job or other ideas.

Can email me direct with any thoughts.

Regards

Littlebang556 Rob
______________________________
Fullbore = 5.56mm = 100.20 = smile
A.K.A........THE DREMELATOR
PUT Busselton RIFLE RANGE ON YOUR SHOOTING CALENDAR...THE GOLDEN BULLET...3rd Weekend In May. http://www.busseltonrc.com

littlebang556
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 11:04 am

Cheek piece

#4 Postby littlebang556 » Sun Feb 24, 2008 11:09 pm

I am still interested in looking at various ways/designs of various ideas.

Cheers

Robert Alman
______________________________
Fullbore = 5.56mm = 100.20 = smile
A.K.A........THE DREMELATOR
PUT Busselton RIFLE RANGE ON YOUR SHOOTING CALENDAR...THE GOLDEN BULLET...3rd Weekend In May. http://www.busseltonrc.com

pjifl
Posts: 883
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 12:15 pm
Location: Innisfail, Far North QLD.

#5 Postby pjifl » Mon Feb 25, 2008 8:30 pm

I suggest you do not rush to bandsaw out the cheekpiece. Have a look at ones used by others first. Often its better for the moon shaped piece to have a sharper curve at one end than the other.

Dont know what stock you currently have. An original OMark stock may be a bit thin to do this to.

Drilling the holes in cheek piece and stock so they line up perfectly is not so easy. It may be better to consider drilling from the top through both before the cheek piece is bandsawed out. Then filling the top of the holes with a glued in wooden dowel or blob of bog. Whether you do this will of course depend on what you want it to look like. Its maybe not up to the finest furniture standards but can be made to look reasonable. Anyway what do you want - a piece of furniture or something that shoots well ?

They do have to be parallel in the bottom piece. Of course some 'error' may be taken out when bog is setting

There is another system often used to clamp the cheek piece. A pocket (slot) is made in the bottom half (stock) so it partly cuts into the cylindrical holes. Then a steel plate (maybe 3 inch x 1/4 inch) is inserted with a tapped hole in its centre. A bolt comes into this from the side carrying a knurled knob. When clampled this pulls sideways onto the posts.

This can be done in conjunction with a jacking screw. Personally I dont think the jacking screw is as useful as it looks and the quick adjustment of the other system may actually be better.

But look around.

Peter Smith

Woody_rod
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Location: Woodanilling WA
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#6 Postby Woody_rod » Fri May 23, 2008 5:54 pm

Rob,

Have you made your cheekpiece thingo yet?

littlebang556
Posts: 344
Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 11:04 am

Cheek Piece.

#7 Postby littlebang556 » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:13 pm

I did do the job but am still interested in varying designs of varying adjustability and materials....keep the ideas comming.

Many people within the sport are on a tight budget and given the right information we may be able to save them a dollar or two and keep them shooting for longer.

Rob Alman
______________________________
Fullbore = 5.56mm = 100.20 = smile
A.K.A........THE DREMELATOR
PUT Busselton RIFLE RANGE ON YOUR SHOOTING CALENDAR...THE GOLDEN BULLET...3rd Weekend In May. http://www.busseltonrc.com


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