Sight Focus

If you shoot full-bore, then you're welcome to use this forum to discuss your sport.

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littlebang556
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Joined: Wed Oct 19, 2005 11:04 am

Sight Focus

#1 Postby littlebang556 » Wed Dec 27, 2006 11:11 am

I think I have quite good eyesight and use small ring sizes to circle the aiming mark with the aid of a 0.5 eagle eye.
At most ranges I have no problem in fixing my sight picture but at 1000 it is a blur and hitting the target somewhere in the middle is basically all I can do as I can barely see the aiming mark.
Does anyone have a suggestion that might help? PLEASE!!!

Variable 22mm front and rear with no filters or the like.

Regards

Littlebang556 Rob
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Triplejim
Posts: 513
Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 12:48 pm

#2 Postby Triplejim » Fri Sep 21, 2007 7:22 pm

Common problem, EE's are positive lenses hence to balance out the .5+ in the foresight (perfect vision) you need to have a .5- in the rear sight.

Have a read of http://www.triplej.com.au/pdfpages/Eagl ... esight.pdf
tks James

tiny
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:28 pm

#3 Postby tiny » Sat Dec 08, 2007 8:53 pm

James, I read your article with interest, as I too suffer this problem. I shot in the second pennant at Rosedale a couple of months ago, 900 was ok but at 1000 it was a real challenge. I really struggled to see the aiming mark clearly (even with my glasses). I wear these for astigmatism but do not use an EE. I have been thinking of trying one, I figured on trying a .3
I tried a 2mm post FS at 300, my worst range (no charity at 300yds at Lang Lang) my theory was I could see the post reasonably clearly but the aiming mark is a bit blurry but found I had trouble maintaining a consistent elevation using a 6 oclock hold with just a smidgin of white under the aiming mark.
I have since found a combination that gave me a 49.3 (rare flash of brilliance) LOL. But the problem is still there (blurry aiming mark) The problem really came to a head at Rosedale shooting at 1000 yds but I find it's still there at 500 and 600 shooting at Lang Lang. I feel that unless I can sort this out my scores will not improve. Any help or advice would be appreciated

AlanF
Posts: 6803
Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2005 8:22 pm
Location: Maffra, Vic

#4 Postby AlanF » Sun Dec 09, 2007 6:19 am

Tiny,

I sincerely hope you can find a solution, and you're talking to the right person in James to do that.

If it doesn't work out, then there is always the F-Class option. Even if you've had your heart set on steel sights and sling, many of the ingredients of TR are still there in F-Class, including what most consider to be the main skill requirement, reading the wind. So if you do want to try F-Class, and need advice, please ask again on these forums.

Alan

Triplejim
Posts: 513
Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 12:48 pm

#5 Postby Triplejim » Sun Dec 09, 2007 4:21 pm

A positive lens "blackens" up the foresight and negative the ring. I suggest having an eye test to start, my guess is your aiming eye is -.75 or more. If fitting an EE (positive lens) then correct by with a negative lens in the rear peep. For example, .5 EE

Rear peep +1.0, go to +.5
Rear peep -1.0, go to -1.5

Otherwise, fitting an EE will further grey out the target,
James

pjifl
Posts: 613
Joined: Fri Jun 17, 2005 12:15 pm
Location: Innisfail, Far North QLD.

#6 Postby pjifl » Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:47 am

Tiny,

Maybe you are expecting too much from the EE setup in that you can never have front ring and target both PERFECTLY sharp with this type of setup. Riflescopes achieve it by superimposing intermediate target images with a X hair.

Despite a blurry target, the eye can still do amazing things. But you have to believe in this ability for it to work, and use the best size front ring. Despite the fact that I shoot predominantly FO now, I did a lot of TR shooting and best scores always corresponded with slightly blurry target.

Its a compromise - and the more strength the EE has, the more important it is to get the best compromise eyelens power.

Young eyes can find this compromise automatically. Best thing for overly mature eyes is to try different power eye lenses and use the one where the front ring is just beginning to lose its sharpnness. Do not be tempted to choose one that gives the best target sharpness.

If you can get some + and - lenses of 1/4, 1/2 Dioptre lenses, try them in conjunction with your normally prescribed glasses. This is in my opinion preferable to the variable rear dioptre lenses for a few reasons.
Trying lenses like this is in my opinion the best approach.

Maybe a club should invest in a set of lenses like this.

Peter Smith.

tiny
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:28 pm

#7 Postby tiny » Tue Dec 11, 2007 9:25 pm

Thanx guys you have given me a lot to think about.
James, I will follow your advice and get my eyes tested again as it's been nearly two years anyway. I remember seeing a card posted on the notice board in our club house with the details of an optometrist somewhere in Melbourne that specialises in our (full bore shooters) problems. I don't really fully understand the ins and outs of diopters and corrections etc yet, but I'm gradually getting my head around it. Here I was just assuming a .3 EE would solve all my problems in one fell swoop, guess it's never really that simple is it. Again thanx for the help.

tiny

AllanH
Posts: 7
Joined: Fri Sep 07, 2007 5:15 pm
Location: Sydney

Sight Focus

#8 Postby AllanH » Wed Dec 12, 2007 5:32 am

Hi Tiny

Have you tried using larger rings. From experience I know that it is easier to centre the target if it is fuzzy using a larger ring than is possible using a smaller ring. The important thing is to try and have the front sight as focussed as possible.

Regards

Guest

#9 Postby Guest » Wed Dec 12, 2007 6:54 am

Hey Tiny,
As a long time sufferer of short sight, astigmatism and all the sighting problems that go with it, having tried eagle eyes, diopters, front iris, back iris, filters, big rings, small rings, various corrections etc etc I finally discovered the way to fix it absolutely.
Put a scope on, now you can focus the sight ( cross hairs ) AND the target at the same time---what a picture.
No more expense trying this and that, no more frustration when nothing works. Enjoying the sport once again.
Barry

tiny
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:28 pm

#10 Postby tiny » Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:52 pm

Alan that's what I did at 300 last time, I opened up to a 3.6 from a 3.2 that seemed to help. With my M17 which has a longer sight radius, I was using an adjustable Ladder FS set at 3.9 though I think my rearsight aperture was a tad on the large side. I have since come down, I find this varies with conditions but I now make a concious effert to make it as small as conditions will allow.
Barrie, funny thing, Paul Mc Carthy said the very same thing to me, my son shoots FTR and loves it, but guess I'm stubborn, I want to try and fix my problems and shoot fullbore for a while longer. It's good to know though that our sport has opened up to include FTR and F open I have toyed with the idea of F open, having done a bit of benchrest from time to time and I think scoped rifle would be fun, pity it's not more popular as thats probably the way I would go. The only guy I know of around here that's given it a try is Greg Phelan. So I guess I will try and postpone going over to the dark side LOL for as long as I can.

mike H
Posts: 552
Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 5:34 pm
Location: JUNEE NSW

#11 Postby mike H » Thu Dec 13, 2007 7:43 pm

Tiny,
There` a solution available to you. Follow Greg to Match/rifle. Use a scope and enjoy yourself. If seeing better again appeals to you, then dare to be different, become a leader and shoot optical class.
Mike.


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