Metric Ranges
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- Posts: 84
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- Location: Waikerie, South Australia
Metric Ranges
I hope this is not a dumb question but I need help with front ring sizes to use to shoot on a metric range. I have never competed on a metric range before and need to do a conversion for sights. I have a chart for elevation difference. I know it is going to depend on barrel length and each persons eyesight but if anyone can help out with a starting point for front ring sizes they use for 300 metres to 800 metres I would be most appreciative.
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- Posts: 623
- Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 5:34 pm
- Location: JUNEE NSW
Ring Sizes
Hello Bart,
I am not a full bore shooter. Did try a few years ago, around the 55 Year old age, no luck, at that age you are about 35 years behind the field. Discovered F/class and have been happy eversince.
However to your question, if you have been shooting on imperial distance ranges, I doubt there is much change at shorter ranges, and at longer ranges, go for the closest equivalent, 800 Metres is close to 900 yards. Also if you have time, and with the Range Officer`s permission get on the end of the mound, out of the shooters way, and try different size rings. Remember to have rifle cleared before leaving mound.
Please do not try check ring sizes from behind the mound, whilst looking over people in front of you. I know there are charts giving ring sizes for different ranges, but with different light conditions, and variation in human eyes, I think you will have to work it out yourself. Try and cultivate contact with top shooters, they will help, as long as you don`t start telling them how it is done.
Mike.
I am not a full bore shooter. Did try a few years ago, around the 55 Year old age, no luck, at that age you are about 35 years behind the field. Discovered F/class and have been happy eversince.
However to your question, if you have been shooting on imperial distance ranges, I doubt there is much change at shorter ranges, and at longer ranges, go for the closest equivalent, 800 Metres is close to 900 yards. Also if you have time, and with the Range Officer`s permission get on the end of the mound, out of the shooters way, and try different size rings. Remember to have rifle cleared before leaving mound.
Please do not try check ring sizes from behind the mound, whilst looking over people in front of you. I know there are charts giving ring sizes for different ranges, but with different light conditions, and variation in human eyes, I think you will have to work it out yourself. Try and cultivate contact with top shooters, they will help, as long as you don`t start telling them how it is done.
Mike.
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- Posts: 46
- Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2007 9:28 pm
- Location: Upper North, South Australia
Metric Ranges
Hi Bart,
Everyone's sight is different, but generally most fullbore shooters try to use ring sizes that allow a maximum of white around the aiming mark so centering is easier. If you were to thread a needle and the thread was nearly the same size as the hole it would be difficult, unless you have extremely steady hands.
Personally if you are shooting well at all the imperial distances then its just a matter of using slightly smaller at the metric equivalent distances.
I use .1mm smaller with no eagle eye, and .2mm smaller with a x.3 eagle eye.
My sizes are as such
300y 3.9 300m 3.8 400y 3.3 400m 3.2 500y 3.7 500m 3.6 600y 3.3 600m 3.2 700y 2.9 700m 3.2 800y 2.8 800m 2.6
With the x.3 ee
300y 5.1 300m 5.1 400y 4.1 400m 4.0 500y 4.7 500m 4.5 600y 4.1 600m 3.9 700y 3.6 700m 4.2 800y 4.2 800m 3.5 900y 3.4 900m 3.1 1000y 3.0
These sizes give me consistent results but 300 and 400 distance is where I often use a filter to cut down the glare especially if using 6x6 frames.
Is is personal choice and results at the target that count. From trial and error I've found tight sizes with a small amount of white around the aiming mark will give the odd brilliant score but not consistency.
Hope this helps,
Bill
Ps. Come to the S.A. queens and try it out!
Everyone's sight is different, but generally most fullbore shooters try to use ring sizes that allow a maximum of white around the aiming mark so centering is easier. If you were to thread a needle and the thread was nearly the same size as the hole it would be difficult, unless you have extremely steady hands.
Personally if you are shooting well at all the imperial distances then its just a matter of using slightly smaller at the metric equivalent distances.
I use .1mm smaller with no eagle eye, and .2mm smaller with a x.3 eagle eye.
My sizes are as such
300y 3.9 300m 3.8 400y 3.3 400m 3.2 500y 3.7 500m 3.6 600y 3.3 600m 3.2 700y 2.9 700m 3.2 800y 2.8 800m 2.6
With the x.3 ee
300y 5.1 300m 5.1 400y 4.1 400m 4.0 500y 4.7 500m 4.5 600y 4.1 600m 3.9 700y 3.6 700m 4.2 800y 4.2 800m 3.5 900y 3.4 900m 3.1 1000y 3.0
These sizes give me consistent results but 300 and 400 distance is where I often use a filter to cut down the glare especially if using 6x6 frames.
Is is personal choice and results at the target that count. From trial and error I've found tight sizes with a small amount of white around the aiming mark will give the odd brilliant score but not consistency.
Hope this helps,
Bill
Ps. Come to the S.A. queens and try it out!
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