Hey there, this may sound manic but have you ever tried framing the target. I have used many sighting systems in 'my time' except the eagle eye. But i have had the best success with framing the target completely, ie the whole target fram in the ring. Especially at longs i can get a nice clear picture. Each to their own, but when i went from the tight foresight to framing the target my scores increased and group sizes halved. I must stress this does not work for everyone! The best sight i have used at 800m or further for Palma style shooting was a cross hair....... i pulled the guts out of an old hunting scope an fitted it into my tiger tunnel. i never used it in comp, but it was interesting to see how well it worked.
Hope you can use some of this, it may be a bit late but better than nothing
Cheers Haemish
framing
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Framing
Hi Haemish, I've tried framing it a few times, but most times my groups increased as soon as I'm off the target with the F.ring except for the 8x6. I have used an eagle eye since they came in starting with x3 then x5 at the longs, then x5 at every range. Just lately I'm shooting better or just as well without the eagle eye at all. There is a few drawbacks with eagle eyes though. They can come loose, get wet, dusty, fog out, and pick up reflection off the barrel. Also easy to leave home if taken out when cleaning barrel. Wind Zero's and elevations are different with each lense. And most adjustable FS don't open out enough. Need to carry much greater supply of rings.
But it does look bigger and better at the longs
Cheers Bill
But it does look bigger and better at the longs
Cheers Bill
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Frame
I tried framing the target after a conversation with a state shooter detailing some of the logic behind it but it had a negative impact on my scores.
My sight picture is the aiming mark with a thin white ring and I get a very clear picture at all ranges except 900 & 1000...thinking of a filter to fix this when I can save MORE money...
There are too many variables in the world of rifle shooting though to be suggesting that one system is better/worse than the next.
Keep trying, keep shooting and keep having fun.
Regards
Rob Alman
My sight picture is the aiming mark with a thin white ring and I get a very clear picture at all ranges except 900 & 1000...thinking of a filter to fix this when I can save MORE money...
There are too many variables in the world of rifle shooting though to be suggesting that one system is better/worse than the next.
Keep trying, keep shooting and keep having fun.
Regards
Rob Alman
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Fullbore = 5.56mm = 100.20 = smile
A.K.A........THE DREMELATOR
PUT Busselton RIFLE RANGE ON YOUR SHOOTING CALENDAR...THE GOLDEN BULLET...3rd Weekend In May. http://www.busseltonrc.com
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Haemish,
I've come across a few shooters who do this - one of them uses square front sight elements. One thing to watch is that some stop butts are very light in colour e.g. at Bendigo. This means the frame has very little contrast with the background, which can make the framing method nigh on impossible.
Alan
I've come across a few shooters who do this - one of them uses square front sight elements. One thing to watch is that some stop butts are very light in colour e.g. at Bendigo. This means the frame has very little contrast with the background, which can make the framing method nigh on impossible.
Alan
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Of historical rather than directly revelent here, to older blade foresight shooters, framing meant using a wider than normal blade placed high on the target. Thus an inverted U shape of white border was visible around the blade. This is adjusted so the border looks of uniform thickness. Its quite accurate but I would not choose to use it now. Ring foresights are in my opinion better.
A comment on eagle eyes.
If well made and well centred, the zero does not change. Some I have seen do cause a change, however. This is due to less than perfect centering of the lens when it is edged before mounting. Unscrew the eagleye a turn or so. Then while resting the rifle and looking through the sights, have someone turn the eagle eye. If there is any change of image position at all send it back and demand something better.
They do have downsides but its worth trying one especially for the longer ranges. But they take getting used to. The more 'power' the more the difference in blurriness of the target and foresight and the duller the image of the target. For this reason, I suggest the 0.3 - at least for first trials.
The 0.3 and 0.5 refer to Dioptres rather than magnification. Other disadvantages have been mentioned.
The only real solution is new Mark 1 eyeball !
Peter Smith.
A comment on eagle eyes.
If well made and well centred, the zero does not change. Some I have seen do cause a change, however. This is due to less than perfect centering of the lens when it is edged before mounting. Unscrew the eagleye a turn or so. Then while resting the rifle and looking through the sights, have someone turn the eagle eye. If there is any change of image position at all send it back and demand something better.
They do have downsides but its worth trying one especially for the longer ranges. But they take getting used to. The more 'power' the more the difference in blurriness of the target and foresight and the duller the image of the target. For this reason, I suggest the 0.3 - at least for first trials.
The 0.3 and 0.5 refer to Dioptres rather than magnification. Other disadvantages have been mentioned.
The only real solution is new Mark 1 eyeball !
Peter Smith.
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